Monday 4 February 2013

On the Edina Road: Part II


3 February 2013
Post-service photo at the First Baptist Church
Edina, Grand Bassa County, Liberia
   On the Edina Road: Part II:
   Our service at First Baptist Church of Edina ended with a group photo. Yes, that is the congregation that had gathered on 3 February 2013.   
   Soon there was another flurry of activity. A small table was set up in the shade of a tree. Chairs for Rev. Green and the guests were set up. A tablecloth, bowls, plates, and utensils were arranged. Then the feast began. We had fufu—pounded cassava root shaped into balls and allowed to rise. Fufu is to be “swallowed,” not chewed. The diner puts a ball of fufu in the bowel and adds some ground spice, boiled okra/ cabbage, and Liberian peppers to the side. 
James Blay, Patrick Lincoln, and
Rick Wilson with a fufu feast
We had a tray of “country chicken” and some smoked fish. The meal comes together with a spicy soup that is poured over the meats, turning the cassava ball into an island in the center of gustatory glory.
Fufu closeup

    Throughout the meal we were attended to by folks from the church eager to extend hospitality to the guests. I asked who had pounded the cassava for the fufu. She came forward and I hugged her neck for her hard work on our behalf.
   We laughed and enjoyed the cool breezes from the Atlantic.
Grave of President John J. Cheeseman,
d. 1896 while in office
   After the meal we continued our city tour. This time we visited and paid respects at the graves of President  and his wife, Edina natives. We noted the ruins of another of the former President’s house. “How many houses did he have?” I asked the Reverend. “Oh! Many! He was the President! [pause] And he had the economy in his hand!”
The 1839 Colony Safe
   From there it was to city hall to see the monument erected during the presidency of William R. Tolbert, Jr.—whose assassination on 12 April 1980 marked the beginning of Liberia’s precipitous decline, from which she only now is beginning to show signs of recovery. There atop a marble slab is a rusty iron safe. The inscription reminds all who gaze on the safe that it was where the fortunes of the colony were held in 1839 when Governor Buchanan saved the day for Grand Bassa County and Liberia.   

   We also had to visit the beach long enough to confirm that there was an ocean.

   Our final stop before returning to Monrovia was to call on the Mayor of Edina and his wife. We were greeted warmly. Chairs were set up under a large shade tree. A table was brought out, and then a tray of water and Club beer. We sat and talked, enjoying the cool breezes coming off the ocean.
   While looking for Blyden today I found reminders of the Liberia that called out to him. He was a contemporary of President Cheeseman, for example. What I knew before today about Edina and Grand Bassa, I learned from Blyden. I’d like to think, too, that as I sat at table and swallowed fufu I shared some similar nourishment with the subject of my research.

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